I don’t know. Well I mean, I’m just not quite sure how to answer your question, it’s so damn broad, can you narrow it down a little? Can I do it for you? It’s kind of like asking an artist if they are a good artist, by whose standards are we talking? Surfing is an art, no wait, it’s like dancing. How about, dancing meets art meets nature. It’s a personal thing in that sense and a form of unique self-expression. To call yourself good, to me, is how well do you know what you’re playing with? How much attention do you really, truly pay to the ocean and her creations. Do you feel as comfortable or as content surfing 2ft as you do 12? Do you draw on every ounce of your experience to pull yourself out of life threatening moments at sea? Do you understand just how very small and insignificant you are against her power? What’s more important, getting air and hacking every section of a wave apart, or style? To me it’s style, because without that you’re not really anything out there.
Let’s put all the corporate crap aside. The surf labels, the clothing, the comps, the crowds, the image, the display home with decoy plastic surfboards resting on the verandah, every brand new car ad with surfboards on rooftops but no ocean in sight. This corporate image, just take it all away out of my sight. I want to get right into the soul, the essence, the spirit, the freedom, the disconnection from land and all it possesses, the nitty gritty, the core, the heart, the crux. Now, you’ve got an ocean to yourself, it’s by no means perfect but it doesn’t matter. Actually it is perfect because you find so much magic in the fact this ocean stretch is all yours and anything can come your way. The waves are sending you into a trace-like state, a deep meditation, something not many can experience in a lifetime.
The sounds of society and all the action on land is drowned out by crashing waves, blue meets blue upon the horizon line, there’s so much peace all around you, just for you, this gift from god or whoever it is up there, I only know him as Huey. So what are you going to do here with all this magic? There’s no one to impress, no worry about self-image, judgements, what brand your wetsuit is, who your shaper is, how much you spent on your haircut, no need to battle for waves, it’s just pure, you and the ocean. It’s time to dance, it’s time to slow things right down, so much so that when you take off on that wave it’s almost like you can see every droplet of water, every section of that wave as a perfect creation, every part of that lip as it strikes a chord with the wind, the shape, the colour, the patterns- this is the dance floor, the canvas. Draw some lines, gouge that tail into the green wall, watch the spray as it’s sent skywards only to be pulled back by gravity and back to where it came from. The energy is just so mind boggling when you find yourself in these moments of solitude. I still struggle to answer that question you asked me. Never mind, it’s not important anyway.
2 thoughts on “So are you a good surfer?”
I was just checking out your site and this one is an interesting one.
Surfing is very multi-faceted and has a ying and a yang. There are contests, kneeboarders, bodysurfers, small points, and big slabs. People of every type surf. Some surf for good reasons and some I have found enjoy surfing to some degree but also use it as an excuse. An excuse to rebel, drink, use drugs, and even not to work.
My friends and I are former pro surfers and we have the best time in the water goofing off. Then we see some tattooed up blonde kid who is a mediocre surfer dropping in on other kids. Or a longboarder hogging up waves. It throws off the old stereotypes of soul surfing or pros being a-holes.
So surfing is so different for every person. Some people just do not belong where I like to surf. It could be potentially fatal for most to surf a 12 foot day at Off the Wall. And…for the guy who surfs at the end of the street…It does not matter if he ever surfs in Hawaii. He is enjoying himself.
Years ago I stopped focusing on the abilities of others and just focused on myself. Surfing is an interesting journey. A short one for some but that is just where they took it too. Like a person signing up for yoga classes and only getting through 3 classes and quitting. Some are just jumping on and getting off. For people like us, it is a lot longer ride.
love it – makes a lot of sense when you look at it over your whole life instead of being stuck in a bubble :))
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